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将进酒·记嘉地伦敦品鉴

2018年08月23日
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2018年6月28日,伦敦,晴朗而怡人。


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在伦敦最富盛名的中国餐厅,黑色大漆木饰面金色描绘古代园林仕女图,黑色缎面靠枕镶着金边,神秘、贵气、优雅、极富中国魅力。一边厢是大面积的落地玻璃隔断透过海蓝色光晕,中和了黑金搭配的沉闷,赋予空间灵性和呼吸,对面连缀所有场景的黑檀雕花格栅修饰空间,移步移景,这一场美好缓缓展开。


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今天,在这里将举办一场嘉地酒园的品酒会,由赵凤仪Fongyee Walker MW主持。非常荣幸的是,嘉地酒园邀请了葡萄酒界本世纪最权威最具传奇色彩的Decanter总编Steven Spurrier参加品鉴。


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Steven Spurrier是葡萄酒界最无可争议的最伟大的品酒大师,是全球具有广泛影响的业内权威。Steven 1976年主持了最著名的巴黎评判“Judgment of Paris Tasting”,为纳帕河谷葡萄酒业的崛起立下了一道丰碑。也创立了这种方法,通过对大家“不熟悉”的酒和“熟悉”的酒,有足够多专业人士参与的情况下,进行盲品比较从而获得可靠的认知。


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到场还有著名酒评家、IWC联合主席Charles Metcalfe先生,其余5位是MW或者MS,还有Decanter中文网的年轻主编Sylvia吴嘉薇,还有代表杰西丝罗宾逊出席的知味联合创始人施晔。


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这一场嘉地品鉴以“初次见面”为目的,更多以呈现、客观评价为主,自由、轻松Style。环节的设置,首先以嘉地风信子干红作为1号开场,给大家一个基本了解,毕竟对于大多数酒评家宁夏产区是一个新兴产区。然后,玩一个盲品环节,由三款酒构成,并没有公布其中含几款嘉地酒款,对于这样的专家并不需要太多参照系,用盲品打破思维定势即可。接下来是嘉地的垂直年份品鉴。


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侍酒由餐厅的首席侍酒师帅气小哥进行服务,醒酒、温度都把握得非常完美。第一款风信子获得了一致的好评,也拉高了大家对于嘉地的期待。在三款酒的盲品中,酒评家的评语摘要如下:


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盲品品鉴及评价 

Blind Tasting Comments

 

Steven Spurrier:

非常有意思的品鉴,4号酒对我来说是最棒的酒款,这些酒款都非常不同。

但是4号酒对我来说是最棒的酒款。


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Willie Lebus MW:

3号酒是我目前最不喜欢的酒,所以先放在一边,VA(挥发酸)有些高,并且酒有些粗糙。

2号酒和4号酒有很大不同,我选择4号酒不是作为中国酒,是一款酒精度不是那么高的产区。

2号酒果实成熟度很高,也有一些甜甜的橡木味道在里面。


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施晔MW候选人:

我同意他们的说法,4号酒是我最喜欢的酒款。

对于2号酒款,果实成熟度非常好,把所有因素能够很好得结合在一起,非常和谐,能品尝到很多葡萄的单宁,回味很长;

3号酒款,让我很难选择,尝起来这款酒似乎酒体结合得不太好,酒体和橡木有些分离,有点像购买的葡萄。如果有人问我,我会猜这款酒有可能是购买的葡萄酿制的葡萄酒。我的选择是4、2、3。


Peter McCombie MW

我完全同意Steven的看法,我的最爱是4号酒。

4号酒非常新鲜,非常平衡,年轻,有活力,就是非常平衡的一款酒。

2号酒,橡木桶味有点重,2号酒款相比3号是稍微老一些的酒,颜色、酒体年份相对都比较老,挥发酸也有些高。

3号酒我认为比2号酒款好一些,应该会年轻一些,所以我的排序是4,3,2。


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Charles Metcalfe:

2号酒显示出最重的酒体和酒精度,也许有一点点超出我的承受度,但是做得仍然很好。

3号酒,非常漂亮的紫红色,气息有动物的气味,皮毛,马厩,但是单宁粗糙一些、有一点点生青味。

4号酒,是我最喜欢的一款酒,果实成熟度很高,很有活力,有着令人愉快的香气,非常令人心动的酒体,可能单宁还有一点点生涩,但是仍是一款非常棒的酒。


Isa Bal MS:

我认为3号酒似乎和意大利Chianti有点类似……

我认为4号酒绝对不可能是宁夏的葡萄酒……


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答案揭晓、嘉地垂直年份品鉴及之后的讨论

Announced the results, Vertical Tasting and Discussion

 

凤仪揭晓了盲品答案:

No2  嘉地酒园咏叹调Jade Aria 2014

No3  Ridge Monte Bello 2014

No4  嘉地酒园信使Jade Messenger 2015

 

之后进行了垂直年份的品鉴,嘉地咏叹调Aria 2015和信使Messenger 2014。


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Steven Spurrier:

信使Messenger 是一款非常漂亮的酒!非常棒的酒!

 

Willie Lebus MW:

Messenger绝对堪称典范了!非常令人惊喜!嘉地走在正确的道路上。

 

Charles Metcalfe:

Messenger有着很好的结构,并且优雅,在这款酒中体现得真的是太完美了,你们做的这款酒真的非常棒。Aria 2014 也是一款很好的酒,但是风格并不相同。我每年参加IWSC评选,那么多中国葡萄酒参赛,这么多年来,嘉地酒园是我目前喝过的最好的最高品质的中国葡萄酒。

 

Steven Spurrier:

Aria2015相比2014是一个很大的进步,非常非常好的酸度,更加Fresh,更细腻,还有一些蔓越莓的香气在口腔中。

……


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嘉地酒园庄主丁健和Steven Spurrier合影留念


嘉地伦敦品鉴可以说取得了极大的成功!在伦敦这个几百年来葡萄酒评价与教育、葡萄酒拍卖和交易的葡萄酒世界之都,各位专家对于出色的酒质喜出望外。这是美好的一天,嘉地酒园收获肯定获得鼓励继续努力。


嘉地 中国品味 我的故事



Hi ~

 

Today it's my honor to be here and present my wines. I was a little bit nervous, you know this is the first time Jade Vineyard come to London. I was afraid of my wines would be shy when they face you guys so brilliant super wine experts. It's really challenging for a young Vineyard especially come from a young wine-producing-area. But I'm so proud of them, they are great!

 

11 years ago, I left the bank I worked for, as a housewife I studied News in Beijing University and learned French with a teacher, I suddenly fell in love with wine. Don't know why, maybe Dionysus called me to join. So I began my wine business as an importer. It was crazy! Because I did this business without any basis, no experience, no professional knowledge and skill.


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Six years ago another instincts sounded in my heart, so I started Jade Vineyard. It's a virgin land, never being cultivated and used before. It's located on foothill of Helan Mountains. It's really tough work to cultivate. This sub-region belong to Ningxia produce region, which is surrounded by Helan Mountains and Yellow River, as a magic green land surrounded by desert and barren. It's very continental climate, very very dry, very very sunny, very windy in spring, very hot in summer, and very cold inwinter. This dream has confronted with many difficulties.


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One of my friends who is a world famous cellist, is a Chinese who studied music in Europe since teenage. He asked me: there are so many famous wine regions in France and Italy, so many famous domaine and CRUs have produced so many fine wines even great wines, if it is necessary to build up a Vineyard in China to produce wine? Can it will be successful?

 

It was a good question, I was asked first time. And then I have already indulged myself in this mission for 4 years and sometimes I really feel exhausted.

 

I told him wine is the only one drinks of the world, without any information you can taste where it's from, you can taste terroir, climate and weather. When you drink Mosel, you can recall German classic music; when you drink Alsace, you can imagine the fairy view of Voss Mountains. But, if there is any Chinese wine can represent China? When people drink it can taste Chinese style and culture?


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Jade vineyard keep humble to the nature, try to keep nature's giving to express our special terroir. On the other hand, we also respect traditional method and culture.

 

Although this job is not easy, I know that, not easy to fulfill, but I think it's a journey of my life, it's my mission, I make up my mind to try it.

 

And so fortunately I got you here, I think today is very important and meaningful to make our long term achievement in the future. It's just the beginning, we are still on the way, but you told us we are on the right way.

 

Thank you so much for your coming and comments!


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